At Taste 2025, through a curated selection of wine labels, we will delve into heroic viticulture – a way to celebrate Italian tradition and the history of “challenging” yet captivating regions, capable of delivering extraordinary satisfaction.
Leading us will be Alvaro De Anna, founder of the “Vini da Terre Estreme” project, who will explain what “heroic viticulture” is – a concept officially recognized by the 2020 Unified Wine Law – why it is so fascinating, and how atypical climates, forgotten grape varieties, and unique winemaking methods can hold strong appeal in the market.
What is the concept of heroic wine?
«In Italy, our beautiful country, it began on the snowy peaks of the Alps and spread to the Mediterranean with its jagged coastlines and sandy beaches, studding the Mare Nostrum with islands of varying sizes.
In this complex scenario, history has projected an age-old alternation of peoples which has led to the extraordinary multiplicity of micro cultures that characterize us.
The countless local traditions and infinite facets of the territory are reflected in the precious variety of our enological patrimony: paradoxically, it seems that the best fruits are often born in territories which only
appear to be improvident or extreme. In these territories - on the steep slopes, in the boiling sands, amidst the volcanic rocks and snow - where the cultivation of vineyards is a fierce struggle with nature and harvesting
is sweat and toil as well as plenty of satisfaction, the so-called “heroic” wines are born».
How did you become interested in this sector? What has been your commitment to it?
«In 2015 I had already been involved for quite a while in the promotion of important Protection Consortiums and Italian regions both abroad and in Italy, accompanying them to trade fairs and creating targeted events in Italy and overseas. In that context I was able to get to know and taste wines from various territories produced by small winemakers with love and complete dedication. All places where Man has had to fight, often for centuries, to snatch a few hectares of arable land from Mother Nature, receiving the value of uniqueness in return.
Jean Cocteau once wrote: "The extreme limit of wisdom, that's what the public calls madness". Who knows how many times, every day, these heroic producers confront their own wisdom and their own madness.
They express the inseparable and indissociable bond they have with their territory, they carry the history, traditions and culture of the wines they interpret in their hearts.
Nature and hard work are their travel companions and the exclusivity of their products brings the joy of continuing to bestow them upon us. How could I fail to fall in love with these entities as I handled their promotion, creating themed events, workshops, master classes, meetings with trade professionals and importers overseas».
What is the potential of these wines on the complex and global wine market?
«In recent years, within a broad and international proposal, being "unique", creating their own positioning, is rewarding.
Heroic winemakers, on average small producers, cultivate vines which have often been salvaged from centuries-old vines, and their products are nearly always consumed in the territory where they are produced.
In this context, on their own they wouldn’t be able to put themselves forward on a global market, whereas markets, especially abroad, are increasingly looking for new and exclusive products.
These are niche wines, reserved for those who are able to recognize the authentic flavors of Nature, and have their own precise positioning.
Paradoxically the territories with the greatest presence of heroic winemakers are the best known from a tourist viewpoint: Aosta Valley, Valtellina, Langhe, Cinque Terre, Apuan Hills, Dolomites,
Prosecco Hills, Violet Coast, Etna, Sardinia, the small islands of Giglio, Elba, Pantelleria, to mention just a few.
It is necessary to talk about them, make them known, to accompany them commercially on the various markets through themed events in order to promote them not just to the professional world but also to the public of wine enthusiasts».
